Tailoring Blossom

All by Celine.

All by Saint Laurent. 

All by Louis Vuitton.

2019-09-20

早前的2019秋冬專題,介紹了今季在天橋上演的Bourgeoisie時裝運動,目標是抗衡近幾年雄霸天下的街頭時裝,活化中產女性的優雅知性。同樣的情況,亦出現在男裝天橋。

Image description Blue cashmere double-breasted jacket with flap pockets, white cotton print shirt with short stand-up Mandarin collar, Two-toned blue wool patterned trousers, Black shiny leather loafers. All by Giorgio Armani.

Image description Blue cashmere double-breasted jacket with flap pockets, white cotton print shirt with short stand-up Mandarin collar, Two-toned blue wool patterned trousers, Black shiny leather loafers. All by Giorgio Armani.

以衫論衫,男裝衣服不及女裝百花齊放,男士的中產,不是西裝,就是大褸及trench coat,觀察各大品牌與設計師的作品,西裝依仍然是關鍵戰場。不過,潮流如水,潑出去,便難以回復以往的形態。經過十年,街頭時裝與社交媒體的雙重衝擊,時裝營運走向民主,品牌與消費者地位,前所未有地平等,尤其是千禧世代的湧現,他們擁有無邊無際的視野,過去幾十年的產品與營運方式,已非他們所追求的時尚。

Image description Blue wool single-buttoned jacket with peak lapel, Blue wool flared pants, Orange satin shirt with hidden button pocket. All by Givenchy.

自從今年春夏,幾位潮流焦點設計師,包括Dior Men的Kim Jones、Celine的Hedi Slimane,以及Louis Vuitton的Virgil Abloh等等,不約而同希望復辟tailoring ,分別利用自己的美學及方法,真正是兄弟爬山,各自努力。來到秋冬,革命尚未成功,天橋繼續上演光復tailoring二部曲。

Image description Olive green wool military jacket with silver buttons, Olive green technical nylon cargo trousers, Black technical nylon zip-up jacket. All by Prada.

Text_Ben Wong
Styling_Ben Wong
Photo_Deon Wong
Hair & Make up_Kay Tsang
Model_Pawel F. from Sun ESee Model Management

Image description Dark navy chalk stripe jacket with overstitching details, Cream wool argyle pattern V-neck vest, Light blue pooplin cotton stripe shirt, Geen and pink wool turtleneck sweater, Khaki gabardine cotton wide leg trousers, Beige calfskin Horsebit chain loafers, Red velvet beret hat. All by Gucci.

Image description Grey pinstripe wool double-breasted jacket with detachable scarf, Grey pinstripe wool trousers, Grey turtleneck sweater with silver stripes. All by Dior Men.

Image description Grey faux fur double-breasted jacket with snaps and patch pocket, Grey faux fur relaxed-fit trousers with elasticated hems. All by Emporio Armani.

Image description Black gabardine cotton double-breasted blazer, Black lambskin skinny pants, White poplin cotton shirt, Black and off-white stripe silk thin tie. All by Celine.

Image description Brown wool geometric print blazer, Brown wool geometric print trousers, Black poplin cotton geometric print shirt, Black leather shoe with rubber lug sole. All by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Image description Grey wool 3-in-1 double layer coat with long belt, Grey wool loose fit trousers, Black cotton tee. All by Louis Vuitton.

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