Text & Styling By Christopher Lai Photography By Stephanie Kay Videograpgy By Derek Yuen Ting Hong Set Design & Art Direction By Catherine Wu Model Enoch Cheung @ Model One Makeup By Stephenie Lee Photography Assistant Ming Ming & Kit Lai Art Team Trista, Kiu Chan & Win Styling Assistant Bee
Relaxed Fit Printed Leather T-shirt, Leather Boxer, Printed Leather Denim Pants and Goofy Lace-Up Shoe. All from Bottega Veneta.
Blazer, Swal lapel jacket, leather piping in contrast, mixed linen and silk, shades of gray from Giorgio Armani.
Leather Top, Leather Shorts and Leather Boots. All from Prada.
自媒體崛起當然是紙媒難做一大原因,但不在本文討論範圍之內。我想說的是,一輪又一輪衝擊之後,如今仍然可以生存的時尚紙媒(尤其是小眾的),必定有其獨到之處。Wintour將法國版《VOGUE HOMMES》摺埋之後,筆者仍然每期進貢的男裝書就只有英國的半年刊《Man About Town》——打開它的Instagram帳戶,你可能有soft pornography的錯覺(主編Huw Gwyther創辦了另一本真材實料的《Yummy》,但影像同樣stylish),販賣男色令它生意源源不斷,400多頁內容品牌包起造型故事佔近一半,雄性紅星超模也不介意袒胸露臂登上封面——幾乎每輯照片都同時用來做封面,每期出夠10個以上,與品牌呈多贏局面(但歧視黃種人的情況則有點昭然若揭,遲 早不被平機會控告都可能被「cancel」)。
Cotton Denim Dungaree with Fuori!! Print, Leather Sole Bootie in Black Patent Leather with Gold Finishing Buckle. All from Gucci.
Double Breasted Slim Fit Waistcoat and Tailored Trousers with Satin Inlay. All from Ferragamo
十幾年前不是這樣的,記得曾買過一期半期《Man About Town》,當時它就像很多歐洲男裝半年刊那樣斯文企理,不用光粉紙啞粉紙而選用書紙,展現紳士品味。原來,此雜誌約莫在2015、2016年左右開始轉型,時尚地灑鹽花並殺出血路。同時,近幾年男裝設計師也掀起了時尚情慾化的風潮,呼應這陣潮流——當然,用「性」來販賣 時尚或作靈感設計男裝並非新事,從遠古的Pierre Cardin、Thierry Mugler、Gianni Versace 、Jean Paul Gaultier、John Galliano到Tom Ford,just to name a few。但近年則有從設計師品牌走向主流,甚至滲透到中下價乃至中古市場的況味。
筆者從出道首季就驚艷的Ludovic de Satint Sernin (LdSS),以S&M、eyelet和各種針織技藝迷倒不少青少年,數季後已獲Ann Demeulemeester羅致到旗下,LdSS也不負眾望,在奧斯卡給跨性別紅星Hunter Schafer那一條只遮住兩點的羽毛(大家說廿幾年前Tomas Chan就已經設計了給鄭秀文演唱會)贏盡網絡流量;另一邊廂,以情 色元素崛起的新星還有法國同鄉Louis Gabriel Nouchi 、Harry Styles穿了去領格林美獎的Egonlab,甚至香港也有Kowloon City Boy,在社交網絡搶鋒頭。如今的Tom Ford乏人問津,但他20幾年前在Gucci做的GG-string丁字褲卻在vintage市場炒到飛起,而看到連ASOS和Zara 都在大賣漁網男裝背心和超短熱褲,你就知道這是當下的Menswear zeitgeist。
Hat, Shirt, Denim Shorts, Espadrillas and Peekaboo Shopping Bag. All from Fendi.
Apron, Tank Top, Shorts, Socks and Dior Warp Sandals. All from Dior Men.