Embrace

2021-08-27

時代,進入了新常態。過去的,已成歷史,只能懷緬,默默銘記。 未知的將來,不能掌握,不可逃避,只能預備,坦然面對。 新常態下,世界仍要運作,時裝仍要上架。 今年秋冬,Embrace 成為創作基調,設計師以不同思維, 回應時代,華麗呈現當下女性的堅毅。

Image description Chanel: Black and white shearling coat. Black cashmere turtleneck sleeveless top with embroidery Black and multicolor cotton with strass embroidery trousers. Sphere earrings in metal, crystals, resin and strass. Dark pink sandals in grosgrain embellished with a bow; Bottega Veneta: Black double cavalry stretch wool coat. Green lambskin spiral corset. Black vegetally-tanned calfskin high Chelsea boots with rubber outsole; Dior: Dior roses marl taffeta dress. Dior roses marl taffeta scarf. “Rose Fantastique“ ballerina in red crinkled calfskin, affixed rose and studs slingback. “Diorpolytechnique“ belt in black smooth calfskin with shiny gold finish CD signature buckle.

《Do You Know Where You’re Going To?》,Chanel 藝術總監 Virginie Viard 借時裝騷音樂,以歌提問。「你知道你會去哪裡嗎?」前路茫茫,這是令人黯然的問號,她也在概嘆:「不如參加自己的睡衣派對?反正我們什麼都不能做。」當外遊仍然遙不可及,她以衣服帶領香奈兒女士群組,穿上毛毛雪衣,幻想白雪山峰的迷人景致。一覺醒來,張開眼睛,朦朧中醒覺,原來身穿閃爍的睡褲,一切都是夢。

秋冬派對,一個接一個,在 Daniel Lee 掌舵下,Bottega Veneta 耳目一新,新作 Wardrobe 02 延續上季 stay home 的設計靈感,以「Living life to the fullest」為主題。要活得盡情,穿得奔放,衣服遊走於簡約與浮誇,幽默奇趣的羽毛裝束,或者圍繞模特兒身體的螺旋形皮革 corset,有創意有趣味,正如 Daniel 所言:「此刻世界需要趣味,我們都要一點刺激。」

Image description Hermès: Indigo cotton denim apron style zipped dress, with inserted black lambskin. Black swift calfskin wide double-tour bracelet and palladium-finish metal (worn as a choker). Black calfskin ankle boots with dyed edges and saddler-style topstitching; Giorgio Armani: Black velvet long dress with wide shaped hip pockets and black crystals piping. Black enamelled interlaced bracelet. Black plexiglass earrings. Black velvet loafers with GA embellishment; Loro Piana: Ivory baby cashmere double-breasted unlined peacoat. Ivory baby cashmere turtleneck sweater with knit belt. Ivory baby cashmere flat ribbing wide-cut pants.

熟悉的生活,曾經越飄越遠,隨着新常態逐漸穩定,西方國家普遍順應自然,嘗試與疫情共存。重新出發的希望,Miuccia Prada 亦樂於分享:「樂觀氣氛正在攀升。」思緒轉化為設計,她與拍檔 Raf Simons,構思出一系列繽紛華麗的衣服。人造皮草外套,或者釘滿珠片的大褸,洗滌瀰漫已久的悶氣,彷彿為世界盼望的曙光,為大家渴望已久的熱鬧,送上瀟灑有型的祝福。

另一邊廂,Louis Vuitton 女裝藝術總監 Nicolas Ghesquière 亦身同感受。累積一年的鬱結,激發了體內的創作神經。「當我們處於不能自由活動的狀態,更要加倍想像,幻想無與倫比的旅程。」如此爆發出的創作力,衣服比以往狂野奔放,輪廓豪邁粗獷,圖案與配搭天馬行空。四十五套衫,以模特兒示範的造型為例,金光閃閃的連身短裙,散發出 Nicolas Ghesquière的影子,配襯男性化的軍服外套,又隱約有點新奇刺激,充滿想像空間,漂亮地衝擊眼球。

Image description Hermès: Indigo cotton denim apron style zipped dress, with inserted black lambskin. Black swift calfskin wide double-tour bracelet and palladium-finish metal (worn as a choker). Black calfskin ankle boots with dyed edges and saddler-style topstitching; Giorgio Armani: Black velvet long dress with wide shaped hip pockets and black crystals piping. Black enamelled interlaced bracelet. Black plexiglass earrings. Black velvet loafers with GA embellishment; Loro Piana: Ivory baby cashmere double-breasted unlined peacoat. Ivory baby cashmere turtleneck sweater with knit belt. Ivory baby cashmere flat ribbing wide-cut pants.

此時,此刻,大家都盼望社交不需要距離,愛馬仕的創作總監 Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski 也不例外。「我們必須盡快正常生活,新系列正是向世界表達我為自信女性設計衣服的堅定信念,這是關乎面對逆境的韌性。」自信,由筆挺布料、硬朗線條,以及中性款式組合而成,她刻意設計了剪裁舒適的連身裙、半截裙,不是為了居家抗疫,而是帶來每一個她都期待的畫面,終於可以扮靚出外了。

提到扮靚,Giorgio Armani 也分享大師心得:「不論 dressing-up,抑或 dressing-down,不會影響我們對扮靚的慾望,即使穿得輕鬆休閑,一樣可以高貴優雅。」Mr. Armani 說,只要穿得舒適,自然會散發自信,這是他縱橫江湖半世紀的智慧。他預料,當社交活動重回正軌,大家會較以往珍惜每一次見面,每一個約會,盛裝打扮,定必捲土重來。事情的發展,無人能預知未來,只能 hope for the best,用心準備。Mr. Armani 最拿手做晚裝,絲絨連身衣及招牌珠片,都是簽名式雍容華貴。「 Elegance never goes out of style」,輕描淡寫,從容 embrace 面前的挑戰。

text & styling_Ben Wong

photo_Ben Tam

hair_Cedric Tsang

make up_Dera Tse

model_Masha Burlan from WE Management